How to Grow Tomatillos



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Days to germination: 4 to 8 days
Days to harvest: 90 to 100 days
Light requirements: Full sun
Water requirements: Water frequently
Soil: Well-drained soil
Container: Very suitable

Introduction

The tomatillo is closely related to the more traditional garden tomato, but it is a different vegetable even though many people consider them to just be “green tomatoes”. One unique feature is that the growing fruits are surrounded by a leafy husk that dries and splits at maturity. The look like little paper lanterns while they are growing.

The husk gives the tomatillo some of its alternate names, such as the husk tomato or husk cherry. They are also sometimes called Mexican tomatoes because they are more popular in Mexican cuisine (particularly in salsas).

They can be eaten raw, but the flavor can be very tart. It’s more common to use them cooked. Most varieties are green when ripe, but you can find some that are red or purple.

Starting from Seed

Tomatillos like the heat and have a fairly long growing season, so it’s a good idea to start your seeds indoors if you can. Seeds should be planted about 8 weeks before you expect to have your last spring frost.

Since you’ll be growing your seedlings for basically 2 months, little seedling trays or cells will not be sufficient. Unless you want to transplant them while still indoors, it’s best to start your seeds in pots that are 3 to 4 inches across.

When you are planning out your tomatillos, you will need at least 2 plants in order to get any fruit. They are self-infertile and must have another plant closeby to pollinate. Three or four plants is better, but you definitely need at least 2.

Transplanting

You can put your seedlings out anytime after all threat of frost is gone, but it’s a good idea to “harden them off” first. Get them accustomed to the outdoor conditions by setting your plants outside during the day but bring them back inside at nights. Do this for 4 or 5 days before your plan on actually planting them.

Once they are ready to go in the ground, dig the soil well and add a fertilizer mix of your choice. Keep your seedlings 18 inches to two feet apart when you plant. Tomatillos will usually require some support, particularly once the fruit starts growing. Put your stakes, trellis or cages in place right when you plant your seedlings so you don’t harm your plants later on. You can always let the plants sprawl on the ground if you prefer, but having them up in the air keep them clean and less attractive to bugs.

Tomatillo flowers are great at attracting bees, so you may want to keep your plants away from outdoor areas where you spend your time but close to other plants that could use the pollination help.

Growing Instructions

Your plants will be killed by any frost, so if you are expecting a late frost after your seedlings have been planted, make sure to cover your plants. Newspapers, a large sheet, or individual containers turned upside-down will all work fine.

Like tomatoes, tomatillos can benefit from regular feedings with a high potassium and phosphorus fertilizer to help set their fruit. Keep your plants well watered, and a layer of mulch can help your soil stay moist between waterings.

Containers

Tomatillos grow very well in pots, usually around 5-gallons in size for each plant. The soil will dry out faster than your garden soil does, so pay close attention to your pots. Tomatillos don’t like dry soil and you may have to water them every other day or more often in dry weather.

Pests and Diseases

It’s the leaves of the tomatillo plant that are the most at risk from the insects in your garden. No one pest is particularly unique to the tomatillo, so just watch for the usual cucumber beetles, potato beetles and other leaf-loving bugs. Pick them off when you see them, and occasionally spray your plants with a pyrethrin-based natural insecticide to keep them away.

Aphids may also be a problem that can be harder to spot, but if you look closely around the stem and leaves, you can see clusters of them. A few won’t do any harm, though large populations of them will start to keep your plants from thriving. Insecticides work well, and they also wash off easily with a garden hose. Having a few more ladybugs in the garden is another good way to clear out the aphids. You can even buy packages of live ladybugs to release in the garden, if you are always struggling with aphids.

Harvest and Storage

Tomatillos are ready to be picked when their husks dry out completely and split away from the fruit inside. They don’t grow as large as regular tomatoes, are will usually mature when they are around the size of a golf ball. The husks are not part of the fruit and need to be removed before you use the tomatillos.

You can pick them when they are a bit smaller, but it’s a lot easier to tell when they are ready by waiting for the husk to dry out. If you want to pick them early, there will be a bit of trial and error to determine when they are actually edible.

These are usually very productive plants, and you can expect 10 or more pounds of fruit from each plant when the growing conditions are good.

But you should leave those husks on while the tomatillos are in storage. They’ll keep better. Store them in the fridge for up to a month without any special conditions. Either keep them loose on the shelf or in a paper bag. If you store them in plastic, moisture accumulation will cause them to rot faster.

You can also freeze them, for a longer storage time of six months. They will much softer when thawed, so plan to use frozen tomatillos for cooked uses rather than raw.

13 Responses to “How to Grow Tomatillos”

  1. anita  Says:
    July 31st, 2011 at 12:30 pm

    I didn’t know what was wrong with my plants lots of blooms no fruit. 1st yr I have ever grew em. Hope it isn’t to late to have any fruit this yr.

  2. debbie  Says:
    August 2nd, 2011 at 8:22 am

    mine are yellow, the husks are falling off,some are split .I was gone for a week the plant was very green when I left and yellow upon returning , I don’t think it got enough water ?

  3. Greg  Says:
    August 24th, 2011 at 11:29 am

    Anita,

    In response to your question on July 31st… did you plant more than one plant? If not, you won’t get any fruit, because you need at least two plants, in order for cross germination to occur.

    Greg

  4. Laura  Says:
    August 28th, 2011 at 7:10 am

    Started plants from seed this year – put 2 in one large pot along side the south side of the house. I hung a twine netting (4 ft wide, 5″ sqaures) from 6 ft high and in front of the plant. Too a while for fruit to start to start, they the plants are huge and supported by the twine netting. Just not sure when to pick – so you’re post here helps. I plan to can salsa verde. I’ll be adding these to my garden regularly. Kept them with the tomatos, but instead of staking, used the net. We’ve been really dry here and they like that. So a good fit.

  5. Cindy Franklin  Says:
    August 30th, 2011 at 12:06 pm

    It’s too far into the season for all of the many (many!) flowers on my Tomatillos to produce fruit. If I remove these flowers, will the remaining fruit grow bigger?

  6. Cynthia Hurtenbach  Says:
    September 5th, 2011 at 8:24 am

    I have 2 tomatillo plants with lots of fruit, however the fruit is not growing to fill the husks. The husks are normal size maybe 1 1/2″ diam, and the fruit maybe 1/2″.
    Anyone know why?
    Cynthia

  7. Candygirl  Says:
    September 13th, 2011 at 6:10 pm

    I have the same problem as Cynthia above – lots of fruit on 2 plants, but on the bigger one, the leaves have all turned light yellow, and the fruit stops growing after getting to ‘marble-size’. Any ideas?

  8. Dennis Acton  Says:
    September 17th, 2011 at 7:58 pm

    It sounds like some of the problems posted here are because of a lack of the proper nutrients. Make sure to hit them with a balanced 10-10-10 like miracle grow as they develop then move to a reduced nitrogen mix for flowering and fruiting. Keep them nicely watered as well. I planted 6 this year in a 16′ x 4′ raised bed and I have harvested hundreds of them. They are 7 feet tall and have grown together like a giant thicket. Too bad the frost is already hitting here in NH but I have built a 7 foot high frame and have draped plastic sheeting over it to extend the growing season. I love tomatillos!

  9. jim  Says:
    September 27th, 2011 at 6:50 pm

    I also have 2 plants, but fruit is small, with many dropping off before filling out. I also would like to know what to do to get bigger fruit.

  10. Farmer Oli  Says:
    November 22nd, 2011 at 6:43 pm

    I don’t know where everybody lives, but I am in Southern Florida and seeded my Tomatillos really late (June). Tons of good 5′ high plants with lots of husks, but also here everything is turning yellow since last week, and my tomatillos are barely a marble large, some of the husks are 4x the size of the tomatillo. Could it be because temperature has dropped a lot lately and it stopped raining?

  11. THE GARDEN GUY  Says:
    March 30th, 2012 at 4:57 pm

    Farmer Oli you waited to long… you should of had them out in early march… Just wanted to let you know. :)

  12. THE GARDEN WIZZ  Says:
    March 30th, 2012 at 5:00 pm

    I know my name is the Garden Wizz, but I wanted to know if tomatillos could be planted in Pensacola, Florida… i make green salsa all the time with tomatillos instead of green tomatoes. Can I grow them here 0_o? HELP ME!!! :)

  13. Jonesy  Says:
    April 5th, 2012 at 2:35 pm

    Tomatillos can be grown anywhere and if you’re really worried, as long as you have more than 1 plant, you can keep them indoors. I plan to do both indoor and outdoor plants this year- I am in SE PA and started my seeds over a month ago. I know it will be at least another 5 weeks before I will be able to move anything outside safely… I have turned my dining room into a mini greenhouse- the house thermostat is at 73, but the grow lights keep that room at least 9 degrees warmer. I am growing other plants that really like the warmth (ancho chilies, habaneroes etc) so most of my garden will be indoors til mid june…

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