Suckers on tomato plants

Anyone got an opinion on what to do with suckers? I was taught that they just drain energy and water from the plant that could be directed elsewhere, like towards the fruit and removing them makes for a stronger plant.

This picture shows you what to look for for anyone that's unfamilar with them - the sucker is the middle one.

http://www.backwoodshome.com/article...trebor57_2.jpg

You see, you have a branch attached to the main stem on the left in this case. The sucker grows in between that branch and the main stem.

Now that's a big one, but I was taught to remove them while they were still tiny and throughout the plant's growth period from half a dozen inches high onwards. Apparently some let them grow bigger then snap them off and plant in potting soil to make a new plant.

This is the first I'd heard of that and was wondering if anyone had done it with success?

I was taught the same thing, to break off the sucker branch while it is small.

There may be some truth to what you said about propagating the sucker branch after it is bigger. But, what about the nutrients it is stealing from the main plant while you let it grow? Here is my story about why I think you can propagate a new tomatoe plant from a branch:

Last year, I was leaving the nursury after purchasing a new tomatoe plant. We had strong winds that day and I heard a snap from the plant. I was concerned I had broken my tomatoe plant at the base, but when I looked I could not see a break. The nursury owner said to make sure that I heaped plenty of dirty around the base when planting it and it would "heal." That makes me think they will root in dirt for propagation.

Yes it is often advised to take out suckers when they are small. I suppose it all depends on how much space versus how much time you have. I have lots of space and little time so I just let them grow. I might get a slightly lower yield per plant, but I'm very satisfied with what I get nonetheless. I also find that the extra foliage shades the fruit, meaning that I don't have to worry about full sun.

Yes, me too green-moo. I've heard that you are supposed to break off the suckers, but usually only do it in the beginning when the plant is small and I am still fussing over my garden. Once the plants are growing well, I rarely remember or bother to do this. I'm usually trying to keep up with picking and canning my tomatoes at that point. :)

I have heard that you should break them off but I have never done it. But I always still seem to have an abundance of tomatoes still.

I think we all learned to break the suckers off because they impact fruit yield. Over the years I've done both - break them off, other years haven't and I've really not noticed a huge difference in yield.

Honestly if I had more time I would break them off but I barely get the garden weeded as it is. Hopefully this summer I will have more time to deal with my garden this year. I hoping.

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I think this year I might at least let one grow a large sucker and try planting it.

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Last year, I was leaving the nursury after purchasing a new tomatoe plant. We had strong winds that day and I heard a snap from the plant. I was concerned I had broken my tomatoe plant at the base, but when I looked I could not see a break. The nursury owner said to make sure that I heaped plenty of dirty around the base when planting it and it would "heal." That makes me think they will root in dirt for propagation.

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mom, that was probably a sucker you heard snapping because I was reading that when they get to that size, they'll snap off cleanly. If there's lots of messy rough edges with fibers, it wasn't a sucker apparently.

I'm always up for experimenting in the garden - thanks again for the input!

It's useful to know that new plants can be rooted from suckers, but I normally have so many self seeded tomato plants shooting up that I have an abundance & no need for extras.

My aunt used to give away her "suckers" to neighbors. Everyone had tomatoes on her block. It's a great way to help those in need.

Sage:

Do you just put them in the ground? I know this was mentioned earlier and I think it would work, but I'm not sure if there is a better method. Sprouting in water first? I'm off to read up on propogation of tomatoe plants. I'll post what I come up with.

I once had a tomato plant ravished by tomato worms, nothing but stems were left, I cut some of the stems off and put them in water and they rooted and grew more leaves, rather quickly too. It seems like they rooted quicker in water, has anyone else done this before?

I pick suckers off until about 12 inches off the ground also all leaves... it helps prevent blight for me. after that I leave the suckers.. yes my fruit may be smaller but I like lots of tomatoes and I get lots from each plant..... Now the plants do get heavy but I use 5 ft high cages and also tie part of the plant to the cage.

I thought you go bigger and less tomatoes by pruning to a single stem.

As far as starting plants from suckers... I have done it and it works.. I just stick it in the ground and keep it watered and shaded until it roots..it will wilt for a few days and then perks right up... it is handy do have some going when You know you may lose some from blight each year.

No but thanks for sharing this. I was wanting to learn about tomato plant propagation. Now I won't have to search for it. This sounds so easy!

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Originally Posted by msmeg

I pick suckers off until about 12 inches off the ground also all leaves... it helps prevent blight for me. after that I leave the suckers.. yes my fruit may be smaller but I like lots of tomatoes and I get lots from each plant..... Now the plants do get heavy but I use 5 ft high cages and also tie part of the plant to the cage.

I thought you go bigger and less tomatoes by pruning to a single stem.

As far as starting plants from suckers... I have done it and it works.. I just stick it in the ground and keep it watered and shaded until it roots..it will wilt for a few days and then perks right up... it is handy do have some going when You know you may lose some from blight each year.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by msmeg

I pick suckers off until about 12 inches off the ground also all leaves... it helps prevent blight for me. after that I leave the suckers.. yes my fruit may be smaller but I like lots of tomatoes and I get lots from each plant..... Now the plants do get heavy but I use 5 ft high cages and also tie part of the plant to the cage.

I thought you go bigger and less tomatoes by pruning to a single stem.

As far as starting plants from suckers... I have done it and it works.. I just stick it in the ground and keep it watered and shaded until it roots..it will wilt for a few days and then perks right up... it is handy do have some going when You know you may lose some from blight each year.

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Thanks msmeg, that's very useful to know! I've grown them tall enough to need a stepladder to pick the fruit and had one plant break with the weight of them despite being staked and tied up. Removing the suckers didn't seem to inhibit the growth of fruit at all.

I'll definitely give it a try once I grow one big enough, thanks again for the information. :)

I know what you mean. My tomatoes are always outgrowing their cages by the end of the season. I'm always reading of new ways to support the plant hoping to come up with a better way to do it. I haven't measured my cages, but I'd guess them to be 5 feet as they are almost as tall as me. I always use panty hose to tie the plant because I've read that they panty hose won't cut into the plant. The plants are still all over the place.

Like a lot of people here I was always taught to clip them off. So that it is what I do, and it seems to work.

If you leave suckers on the tomato plant then they will grow fruit just like the ordinary stem. The higher up a sucker is on a plant the weaker it tends to be. If the stems are just below the flower cluster they will compromise the strength of the main stem. Therefore you should remove all suckers just below the flower cluster and you can leave the other suckers if you want.

Clip the sucker off at its base. It is as simple as that.

sounds like a good experiment in the garden 2 plants leave the suckers. 2 plants remove all suckers and 2 remove all suckers belowr the flower cluster.. Then report back In Sept. most tomatoes, largest tomatoes. strongest plants....